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Pirate’s Cove

by becca on March 8, 2010

Nine hours overland from Padre Burgos (3 hours of which were impossibly bumpy), we finally arrived in Borongan, a little visited town on the Pacific coast in Eastern Samar. We were welcomed to Pirate’s Cove Beach and Surf Resort by the owner, Pete, an American surfer who’s been there for over 20 years. Lonely Planet promised us a mosaic covered paradise complete with a waterpark, multiple swimming pools, fish tanks, and outdoor kitchens, and we were not let down. Though the price quoted in LP was a bit misleading and required us to spend our budget for the week almost entirely on accommodation, we were able to save money by sharing the costs of day trips and homemade meals with the only other guests in the place — a couple of French surfers who we got to know quite well during our five-day stay.

Cooking in a real kitchen appealed to me greatly after over five months of only eating in restaurants. Each day we took a trip to the market, where we purchased fish basically straight out of the water and vegetables straight from the ground. I learned a great deal about cooking fish from Yann, who makes his living as a sailor and previously as a fisherman. Our menu varied each night, but the star of the meal was always mahi-mahi. We made kinilaw, a traditional Filipino dish consisting of fresh raw fish and vegetables with chili, ginger and vinegar; grilled mahi-mahi with a spicy mango salsa; a yellow fish curry; and steamed mussels cooked with beer in place of white wine.

The resort was a nice change from our typical low-cost digs and the four massive windows in our room facing the ocean also framed a sunrise that was worth waking up for each morning. We planned on learning to surf while there, but one day of battling the waves over the dead, razor sharp reef cut up my legs enough for the entire week. Our French friends seemed to enjoy surfing Pete’s private wave though — yes, he actually rents the area right where the wave breaks — as I think most experienced surfers would, especially when Pete cranks up the music: he’s got megaphones blasting his music of choice out into the ocean where you can hear the jams while riding the wave. I have to hand it to Pete who has created his surf temple in the middle of nowhere and maintains an area that attracts locals to come play for the day (for a fee of course) and a destination in itself for foreign tourists.

{ 1 comment… read it below or add one }

matt kenefick 03.08.10 at 6:53 am

this looks pretty sweet beek. jealous.

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